I know that judging the clothes by a picture is like judging a book by the cover, but when the 'looks' is what you look at, I allowed myself some madness to have actually looked at every collection available on style.com, sometimes quickly browsing through, reading the reviews, sometimes stopping for a while to carefully study the detail shots. This whole lot of catwalk pictures may seem random, but after consuming the nth amount of samey same images just about anything seems random. Yet there's a red thread through the seemingly endless Autumn/Winter 2014/15 season, well, at least to me. Stirrups, wiggly things and a pallette ranging from dusty pastels to Black Watch tartan, sportswear shapes cut in luxury skins and normcore...
Normwhat?
Not wanting to discriminate, I'll talk through the surprises of the fashion week in alphabetical order...but just to discriminate a little, I'll start with Acne Studios. You all know about my tender relationship with all things Swedish...yet, I look at Acne but see Dries Van Noten, the way he is now and the way he was circa 2009 or 2011 in his winter collections. It is a good thing though, not only because those were great collections, but also because the swedes did it in a fresher way, referring to the surf culture for the winter collection and pulling it off in abundance of beautifully worked leathers and knits.
I am also a sucker for all things laid-back, like Creatures of Comfort collection that shows a perfect relationship between colour lilac and Prince of Wales and a winter version of check layering, where everything is somewhat 'anti-fit' and slouchy.
I have a strange relationship with Jacquemus...can't call myself a fan of normcore...
Normwhat again?
But the rounded shapes and blobs of colour look pretty and hilarious at the same time. The collection is anti-fit too, may be anti-styling as well - a child could have drawn that and cut it out of paper, but no - a man made that and styled everything with white socks and sneakers.
I don't spontaneously shout 'Nicolas!', but the new Louis Vuitton is something magical indeed. Understated but magical - somewhere between ski wear and haute couture...or should I say haute-tech couture? This is one collection I would love to touch, smell, taste just to admire the craftsmanship, which cannot be admired through an internet image.
More dusty lilac and sporty quilts? The Opening Ceremony collection is supposed to be about Antwerp, but for me it is about brief but notable presence of my new favourite winter colour.
A dusty lilac coat with white quilted lining is on the wish list.
Now, one of my favourite collections of the season is Stella McCartney and her wiggly embroidery, star embellished platform shoes and stirrup trousers. The latter being my new true obsession! I go searching the second-hand shops for stirrups, which I remember were my mom's wardrobe favourite piece back in the 90's. She looked fantastic in them and worn them to the ground, those carrot shaped Lycra stirrups. And that's exactly what I love about the cut of Stella's trousers - those are not leggings, they hang somewhat loosely and seem to be made out of beautiful wool. I'm afraid I'll be investing into a pair of those come autumn - nevermind the visa cracking up the seams.
I've been following Jun Takahashi's Instagram and was intrigued by the images of the work process - it was a great collection to expect, but it was even greater when unexpectedly the models came down the catwalk with red eye-drops instead of makeup sporting intricate hair crowns. But don't be fooled - Takahashi's moody queens have UFOs printed on their dresses! Watching this was like a weird trip to outer space and back, passing all kingdoms of present, future and past. Looking closely at the clothes though I see sportswear - sweatshirts and track pants at most. I'll go to the edge of the world to see this collection in person!
Just one image, but I found the combination of hairy mohair tartan and iridescent plisse absolutely amazing when I saw the collection in the showroom. The show proves that Veronique Branquinho is still true to her best self as it was before she closed the company in the late noughties. I'm glad to see her mixing her strongest references into the collections again and not only doing the commercial white shirts and trench coats. There's even a baby blue oversized satin bomber with neon orange lining! Mouth wide open, I'm waiting for this collection to be delivered to Stijl - good six months to wait though!
And last but not least, this Christian Wijnants collection is absolute madness! How can anyone make a collection where I can't even choose between favourite looks, scrolling up and down the images, wanting to post the entire collection and just say nothing but 'The Best!'
Quilted pastel blanket-like coats were always right up my alley, now combined with quilted mustard cropped trousers and dusty blue boots and my knees begin to shake. Or that dusty blue mohair co-ord with acid yellow gloves and a matching acid yellow backpack with shimmery finish. If you ever had a chihuahua, you know that when that dog gets excited it pees a little... well, I'm turning into a chihuahua. Good god Christian!
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